This was going to be the latest in a no-doubt seemingly-interminable series of aeroplane posts, but our destination this weekend is the one part of Western Australia that gets reliably lousy weather, even in the summer: the southern coast. In that regard, this weekend was predictably disappointing. In almost every other regard, it was an excellent diversion.
The conditions were fine for an IFR arrival, but my American instrument rating can’t be applied to my 3-month licence validation, probably with good reason — I imagine that IFR flying in Australia is more like far northern Canada than the US, in the sense that radar coverage is virtually nonexistent.
As you plan your Denmark holiday, keep in mind that searching for information about this 2,500-person town, whose nearest major town is Albany, is predictably difficult. These destinations are not the typical results for those search keywords.
Along the way and in Denmark itself are fabulous wine country, for which accommodations must be made. Just as in the Barossa Valley, it is the little wineries nobody’s heard of that occupy both ends of the spectrum. Some are a bit of a disaster, but others are a delight.
The last winery we had time for was Mariners Rest Wines, whose somewhat campy nautical theme was eventually revealed to have a more tasteful origin: the winery is owned and run by an ex-Naval officer and his wife.
The first round of tastings were nothing to write home about, and indeed we may not have stayed if we hadn’t been unceremoniously marshaled out to the rear porch for cheese and bikkies, whereupon we discover a veritable grove of tangelo, walnut, and avocado trees.
We sat outside and talked to the owner-wife for a while, who was crazy as a bat, but very nice. She periodically darted into the main room to gather samples of their other offerings — a couple of which were in fact quite good — giving us time to offer hypotheses regarding what the poor people might be getting on to at that stage of the afternoon.
Regular listeners will have already made the mental leap to the end of the story, in which my arms are laden, overflowing like some kind of vegetarian Scrooge McDuck, with avocados in various stages of ripening. I ate a ripe one with supper that night, another on bread for lunch the next day, and they were the most perfect and delicious butter ever to come off a tree, blemished in none of the ways that avocados trucked two thousand miles from the source tend to be. All store-bought avocados of the past and future will be judged against these, and inevitably fall short.
Do not be fooled by his aesthetically pleasing yellow bucket: those waters are antarctic, from the glacial oceans of the deepest south, unfit for man nor beast.
Which is a shame, because Green’s Pool is very effectively sheltered from the raging ocean by a series of boulders 50-100m out to sea. If only it were warm.
These are the famous Elephants’ Asses Rocks, which the local tourism bureau is very pleased about.
On our way out of Denmark, we detoured to nature’s own Treetop Walk, a literally more pedestrian and accessible version of what was to follow (and what has come before). Although it’s somewhat lacking in adrenaline when compared to its sister sites, it is every bit as shockingly beautiful to be up in the canopy.
The gigantic poles that hold up the structure are made from a particular steel blend that’s designed to rust superficially, to complement the environment as much as possible. This is not one of those poles. This is one of those poles.
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The return journey is nothing if not long, but there was another tree-related attraction located conveniently near the midpoint of our travels.
It’s called The Dave Evans Bicentennial Tree, but there is no explanatory material of any kind, so I’m going to assume it’s dedicated to the original 1973-74 lead singer from iconic Sydney band AC/DC.
This is not to be confused with the Gloucester Tree, but you would be forgiven for doing so. They are both in Pemberton, and internationally tall.
The internet cannot even begin to get its story straight about how tall the Gloucester and Bicentennial trees are, but the preponderance of the evidence seems to suggest that, at any rate, the Bicentennial tree is taller. The top platform may or may not be at a height of 72 meters.
Unlike the Gloucester Tree, there is a little platform about 20 meters up, where you are advised not to proceed further if you’re pregnant, have a heart condition, or are not at least this tall.
Please enjoy the aforementioned instrument conditions.
We wonder if anyone has ever fallen to their death. It seems hard to imagine that it’s never happened, but the internet turns up no relevant facts.
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